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Chinese tradition holds that in every hill there dwells a sleeping dragon. The name Kowloon, means nine Dragons. Now, Kowloon only has eight hills. But an emperor can also be a dragon, and at some point several hundred years back, as popular legend has it, one got factored into the count. Kowloon has the honour of housing the most densely populated residential housing blocks in the world. So to say that the place is tingling with excitement is a bit of an understatement. It positively throbs. If you are embarking on Kowloon from Hong Kong Island, treat yourslef to a seven-minute voyage on the Star Ferry. These vessels have been dutifully and punctually carrying passengers back and forth across the harbour since the end of the last century. It’s one of the most scenic rides you will ever take, and costs less than one Hong Kong dollar per trip.

Once landed on the shores of Tsim Sha Tsui (the tip of the Kowloon peninsula, pronounced Chim Sa Choy, you will find yourself in a veritable jungle of shops and restaurants. As a point of reference, head for Nathan Road, the area’s main street, dubbed The Golden Mile. It’s a tree-lined, neon strip with side streets filled with every sort of restaurant and shopping experience. At the end of Nathan Road lies Boundary Street, the old border with China before the New Territories were acquired.

Kowloon is home to the grand old Peninsula Hotel. Sipping a cup of tea in the lobby can transport you back to the days when colonial taipans gathered here for long, idle afternoons. Across the street you’ll find the Museum of History, and the Space Museum. Heading up, away from the Tsim Sha Tsui area, the Yaumatei jade market is worth a look, if not a purchase. At the Wong Tai Sin Temple, you can have your fortune told the Chinese way, by having your face and palm read, or with fortune sticks. Readings are usually quite accurate. And you’ll be in the company of plenty of locals, because the gods are said to give good tips on the horse races.

The Sung Dynasty Villages replicates the Chinese way of life as it was nearly 1000 years ago, and includes shows featuring monkeys, Chinese acrobats, and a traditional wedding. At night, the options are just as varied. You can stroll through the Temple Street night market, dine on fresh (caught before your eyes) in the tiny village of Lei Yue Mun, join the party at one of Tsim Sha Tsui’s many discotheques, Western bars or hostess clubs, or do all three.